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Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Surfing New Thing

So, I got a new surfboard for Christmas. I went out on Day 1 by myself. Only 3 other people out on in the waves- nothing too big. I had fun getting out there and just getting wet. I didn't quite stand up, but it was fun. That was 4 days ago. 3 days ago, I went out to Mondos- a great beginner spot. I had a blast there. Lots of waves to try to catch, and fairly medium tide. So, and, I went with Sherrie and I actually stood up twice. 2 days ago, we went to Leadbetter- which were 7-8 foot waves. Pretty big for my 3rd day out. I actually stood up once, caught a gnarly wave, and then got pummeled coming back in to shore. That was the hardest part of that day- just paddling out- even though the current wasn't too strong. This morning, we went out to C-street in Ventura. I knew just from the looks of it the waves were super strong, the current was so strong as well. I swam out, caught one wave, got washed up all the way into the rocks. And, needless to say, I didn't hurt myself too badly. I got a toenail ripped off, a gash on the other foot and a bruise on my shin. Not too bad I guess. But, on the 4th day, I don't have too much to report. I was only out for 40 mins, and had to get out. Too big for me. No pride hurt..I will try again- but, keep the waves at 3-4'.

1 comment:

john said...

el salvador has some great surfing

Clancy, Mike and I

Clancy, Mike and I
SB Tri Finishers- Nice Tiles!